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The Extreme Sonoma Coast

Morning fog lifts over Freestone township

Within the Sonoma Coast AVA, we have identified an area that produces fruit that is perfectly suited for producing wines of unique character from a limited number of cold climate varietals. This area is west and slightly south of the Russian River and lies 4 to 6 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from this area are capturing world wide recognition. At Sonoma Coast Vineyards we are also pushing the envelope with Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc. We work closely with a very special group of growers (some call them crazy) who share our philosophy and passion in seeking to make wines that have the potential to be some of the best in the world.

Late morning fog over Freestone View Block, Balistreri Family Vineyard

Our goal is to produce wines of exceptional quality from vines that deliver mature fruit at the lowest possible sugar levels. This translates into wines demonstrating mature flavors and mature tannins in balance with fruit character true to the varietal. Our Pinot Noirs are multi-layered while being restrained, yet show incredible concentration and elegance. Cluster size is 1/3 to 1/2 of other regions.

Key vineyards are situated within a two mile radius of the town of Freestone and are complemented by vineyards in the Two Rock area on the far southwestern reaches of the Sonoma Coast. Balistreri Family Vineyard is one mile west of Freestone and lies closest to the coast.

This living on the edge area that we call the Extreme Sonoma Coast is defined by the following Points of Difference:

• Production is extremely limited by temperature. Viticulture only began here in the early 1990's. Historically this area was a grazing and lumber region with limited farming.
• Temperatures are marginal, exhibiting the lowest possible temperatures for ripening. Night temperatures in the 40's due to cold current fog off Bodega Bay and day time highs typically in the low 70's.
• Long growing season; height of harvest activity is from mid-October into November.
• Vines that produce grapes with mature fruit at low sugar levels.
• Crop loads will always be small with 1 to 2 tons per acre being the typical harvest.
• The thin, rocky, shallow soils are a mix of sand and clay with little organic material. It is ideal for stressed vines.

John Drady examines the harvest

The Pinot Noirs from the Extreme Sonoma Coast exhibit:

• All of the characteristics of the wines of the Russian River Valley 
• Lushness
• Black fruit 
• Red cherry 
• Black cherry

• Plus additional characteristics:
• Forest floor 
• Mushroom 
• Leather 
• Brown baking spices unique to cool climates 
• Lavender notes 
• Higher acids
  

Viticultural Challenges within the Extreme Sonoma Coast

• Some vineyards produce so little fruit that they are unable to cover viticulture costs ("The Chilly Dream," Dan Berger, San Francisco Chronicle December, 2004).
• When the Spring season is wet, it causes bloom problems and creates the perfect condition for organisms that can cause high pressure botrytis. Wet weather can also prevent wineries from getting their equipment into the vineyards in order to combat problems.
• If  the Spring is a cold one, it can result in poor vine nutrition at bloom and often poor fruit set. In 2005, after a very cold spring,  Balistreri Vineyard yielded a mere 1,700 lbs. from 4 acres planted with 10,000 vines.
• The presence of heavy fog and cold in the Spring increase the possibility of poor fruit set and more organism problems.
•  Deer and gophers are abundant! Sometimes gopher kill of new vines can run as high as 20%.
• The long growing season and the potential of encroaching Fall rains are part of the excitement each vintage. It can prove to be challenging as often wineries are harvesting the Extreme Sonoma Coast earliest varietal, Pinot Noir, later in the year than Napa harvests their last varietal, Cabernet Sauvignon.
• The question each year is: Will the grapes reach physiological maturity (flavors) before the rains come?
• It takes longer for each vine to produce fruit. Sometimes it can take as long as 5 to 6 years for vineyards to begin meaningful production versus 3 years in most other regions.

Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir

Why the Extreme Sonoma Coast for Pinot Noir?

• Quality versus quantity - struggling vines concentrate more of their energies on fruit production. We want flavorful grapes, not water balloons. Our average is an extremely low 130 to 135 gallons per ton.
• Mature fruit at lower sugar levels assures varietal character.
• Physiological maturity = mature flavors and mature tannins. Essential for wines displaying complexity and balance!

Result: Wines that can be developed over 18 to 20 months in barrel utilizing 50% new oak. (French of course!) These wines experience the full developmental process in barrel and will yield far greater complexity. They will require longer bottle aging prior to release and will age beautifully for many years.

Economy of the Extreme Sonoma Coast

• Wine grapes from this region can be an economic crop because the quality is valued by producers and reflected in the price per ton paid to growers. $4,000 per ton and higher being typical.
• World Class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah from the Extreme Sonoma Coast have the potential to be the "Grand Cru" of California winemaking and there is always a marketplace for the finest of anything!